Siis

The past two weekends I have been able to travel to two other islands within the Chuuk lagoon. A trip off Weno is a welcome break from the bustle of “city” life here. I often consider Weno and all the other islands in the Chuuk analogous to urban and rural poverty respectively. Weno is crowded, dirty, and noisy. Garbage is strewn about without a proper removal system. There is a visible tension between the island lifestyle and looming westernization. In my experience on other islands outside of Weno- the scenery is more beautiful, unobstructed with trash, rusting cars, and noisy markets. The pace of life is slowed, though people have less access to resources like electricity, internet, and stores.

Jessie, Lincoln, Marcos and I were invited to Siis by Kiki. Kiki is a Chuukese woman who teaches at the high school where my community-mates work. She is one of the most welcoming and cheerful women I have met here. I was very grateful for the opportunity to see her home island and stay overnight with a Chuukese family. We left Weno Saturday afternoon and returned on Sunday. Siis holds about 900 people, but it seems like less. Kiki’s cinder- block home stands about 25 yards from where we park the boat. The family can look out on Fefan and Uman from their front door.

Part of our visit was to prepare music and sing with the Saramen students from Siis at their mass on Sunday morning. Saturday night, after dark, students and their younger siblings began to arrive at the house. Marcos pulled out his guitar and our singing practice went on late into the night. Chuukese are phenomenal singers with seemingly inherent abilities to create harmony. After practice, we took the guitar outside to sit under the bright equatorial moonlight and sing some Chuukese pop songs for Kiki’s neighbors. Finally we made it to bed, on the floor as the Chuukese sleep.

The next morning we were greeted with tons of kids who showed up at the house to escort us to mass. I was led by the hands of two small girls, maybe 6 and 8 years old, who wore mumus. The hand-holding and the sense of trust I had that these girls were leading me through a place they felt proud to call home reminded me vividly of Machakos, Kenya. The music at mass was wonderful; and after changing out of my hot sticky mumu, we all ran to the end of the island to go swimming at the beach.

Our visit to Siis was filled with hospitality and peace. For this, I am continually thankful.

Peace,

Caitlin