Island Christmas, Chuukese New Year

Happy Holidays all! Since the end of the school semester I have been enjoying a two week break from work. We have recently had many visitors including Lincoln’s family and the 3 JV’s who live and work in Pohnpei, another state in the FSM. I have very much enjoyed the Christmas season in Chuuk, though I do miss cold weather. Hot chocolate isn’t as satisfying in 100% humidity.

We celebrated Christmas in our village on Christmas Eve by attending mass with the Chuukese community. We had a delicious dinner and after mass sang Christmas carols in our apartment. On Christmas day we woke up early to open the small presents we got one another. My community had a $1 Christmas gift exchange; and we opened presents sent from our families. Thanks Mom! We then attended English-language mass with the Xavier community of JVs. I sang with the choir that Marcos directs, which provides music for all the English masses. Following mass we all headed up to Xavier for lunch, a very muddy/barefoot soccer game, and dinner with the community there. Christmas wasn’t the same as being with my family at home, but I very much enjoyed the opportunity to celebrate my first island Christmas.

Chuukese New Year was probably the most unique holiday I have observed in Chuuk in my 5 months here. Basically, the idea is that after midnight everyone makes as much noise as possible for the next 24 hours at least. The JVs spent New Years in the adjacent village dancing to the band Marcos plays in. When we drove home at 2am we passed loads of people out on the street drumming on any piece of available metal or banging on pots. We headed to the roof of our building to participate and later realized that our percussion skills are not as advanced as the majority of Chuukese people. I was awakened at dawn the next morning to parades of people outside my window banging on things and yelling, “happy new year everyone,” in Chuukese. The noise continued to accost me from my window all day long. On New Years Day evening I was out on the road and invited to join a group of maybe 20 people carrying a sheet of tin roofing and pots to ring in the New Year. Everyone was out on the road- old and young, whole families together. It was a very noisy New Year and a completely different way of celebrating than anything I have experienced.

Kinamwe,

Caitlin

Celebrating St. Cecilia

We recently had a wonderful celebration here in Chuuk at the school where I am teaching, St. Cecilia. November 22 marks the feast day of St. Cecilia in the Catholic church, which we celebrated with two days of festivities at school.

Beginning two weeks in advance I was notified by the teachers that 8^th period was going to be utilized by the students for “practice.” What practice and why I was not informed of. I am beginning to let go of the need to ask for details and am satisfied to just go with the flow. So practicing commenced and eventually took over the school day. That which was originally reserved for 8^th period spilled over to 7^th,6^th,5^th,4^th and all the way to 3^rd period. This only frustrated me as I watched the learning stop for what seemed to be dance practice going in the classrooms.

When Thursday Nov 22 finally arrived we began the day with mass. Following mass students, faculty and about 200 parents and friends gathered in the school building. The classrooms are lined in one row with walls which can be pushed back to create a meeting space. So we met in what are normally 3 classrooms. Each grade had organized and choreographed their own song, dance, or skit to celebrate the feast. St. Cecilia was the patron saint of music so all of the song was appropriate. Some of my favorite performances were the kindergarteners, dressed traditionally in bright colors, the girls with crowns of flowers on their heads (called maramar) and the boys in thus (wrapped skirts). They were adorable! Pictures will be up soon. The 4^th grade looked great in their high energy hula dance. The female hula dancers never cease to amaze me here. My students had a great time with their dances especially the 6^th graders who were letting me sit in on their rehearsals a few days before St. Cecilia day.

The entertainment led up to the following day in which the school organized a big fundraising carnival to raise money for the school. St. Cecilia is in a significant amount of debt and is often unable to pay the faculty their salaries, so fundraising is imperative for the survival of the school. Each class organized games, items for sale, and entertainment to help raise money. The 8^th graders organized a band which played in their classrooms and since I do not have my own homeroom I spent the day helping out Sr. Rose with the 5^th graders. This meant that I sat in a chair and held the box with the money while contently drinking a coconut most of the morning. Each class put in a lot of effort for this day and the class to make the most money is regarded as the hardest working.

At the end of the day when everyone had left, Sr. Rose, Sr. Sophie and I sat down together to count ALL of the money. Twice. We managed to raise around $3,600 for the school. I was shocked at the amount; this is a country where minimum wage is $1 max. The school has a lot of support from the families who are invested it and they all contributed a lot from the day. All of the work and all of the counting this past week has definitely given me a greater perspective on fundraising and what it takes to keep a school like St. Cecilia functioning financially.

These two days also gave me the opportunity to spend out-of-the-classroom time with my students. I am coming to see this type of interaction as very important, especially due to the language barrier. I was able to laugh and dance with my students, to connect in ways that surpass language. For that, I am very grateful.

Peace,

Caitlin

Stolen flip-flops, turtle shell, and nuns

“Don’t hit the chicken!!” Sr. Toni screeches as we drive down the road on our way home from work. Sr. Rose swerves and avoids the chicken on the road. No cars protest, we usually only go 15 mph anyway.

I experience the road in Chuuk daily with the three Mercidarian nuns who I work with at St. Cecilia and who graciously drive me to work everyday. The road is always an adventure; the 4 miles usually takes about half an hour, sometimes more. There is only one main road wrapping around the coast of the island, and some smaller offshoots into the internal villages. Obstacles include chickens, pigs, pot holes, children, and volleyball nets. The sisters drive a silver Honda, low enough to the ground that we usually bottom out when trying to mitigate the pot-hole laden sections. Their front windshield is shattered in one spot- with that spider web cracked pattern, taped from the inside. It was broken by a large pipe that fell on the car from the construction on at the cathedral outside St. Cecilia. There are no laws for traffic in Chuuk, no state inspections, no traffic lights, no car insurance- so something like a shattered windshield isn’t too worrisome.

Sr. Toni, Sr. Rose, and Sr. Perpetua are some of the best friends I have made in Chuuk in my 3 short months here. They are getting me through the challenges at St. Cecilia, whether by removing the dead rat from the library where I keep my desk, or explaining why women have to wear slips or shorts under their skirts, or offering help on grading. Sr. Toni is a Palauan woman who teaches 7^th and 8^th grade religion; Sr. Rose is Yapese and teaches 5^th, and Sr. Perpe is also Yapese and teaches the 2^nd graders. The sisters are really committed to the school and are a big reason why St. Cecilia still functions. They are totally down to earth and are always willing to answer my questions. They often give me small gifts like papaya from their garden.

Last week, Sr. Perpe gave me a turtle shell ring. Sea turtles are an animal often consumed by Micronesians, they use the meat for food and the shells for jewelry and hair combs. However, they are an endangered species. Most outsiders would judge the use of turtle in Micronesia negatively. Guide books tell you not to eat it, you cannot import turtle shell jewelry into the US- it is confiscated at customs. But Micronesians really value it in their culture. I am still not sure I would eat turtle if it was offered to me. It is one of those differences where you ask yourself if it is more important to respect the culture or advocate for greater awareness and environmental justice. It’s a great question we are faced with here.

Last story for today- Mondays are laundry days for Jessie and I. After I get home from school we take the 5 minute walk over to the laundry mat down the road with all our laundry in our arms. Some days we are there for hours waiting, sometimes it takes 45 minutes, depending on if there is electricity on island. Culturally, only Chuukese women do laundry. I have never seen a man in a laundry mat here other than Lincoln. So while we wait Jessie and I usually make conversation with the women or write letters. When you step indoors here, it is polite to leave your shoes outside the door. There is a lot of mud, especially in Nepukos, the village where we live, so wearing shoes would require a lot of mopping. When my students come into the library, they take off their shoes, we never wear shoes in our apartment, and so we leave our zorries (flip flops) at the door of the laundry mat. But after our laundry is done and we are ready to walk home, we realize that our flip-flops had been stolen while we were inside. There is less of a mine/yours understanding in Chuuk, people often trade things like zorries, if they like yours they take them and leave the ones on their feet. But these were definitely stolen and we were definitely walking home in the mud barefoot. The road in Nepukos is not the ideal place to walk barefoot, there is barely pavement, mostly mud. But Jessie and I did it, laughing to ourselves, scheming when to purchase our new $1 pair of zorries. I scrubbed my feet for a good amount of time after arriving home, and even though I miss my bright orange zorries, I feel as if I have been initiated.

Kinamwe.

I think I am allergic to chalk...

Hello all, sorry for the lapse in blogging, since the last post my community was without a computer for 2 weeks and then Chuuk spent one straight week without electricity. I really enjoy spending much less time on the computer, but don’t try and talk to me about current events when I get back.

Things here have been picking up momentum. Today at St. Cecilia we finished the 1^st Quarter of the school year, so I have been giving exams the last two days. It’s hard to believe that 1/8^th of my time teaching is already up. In some ways I am thankful. Life in the Chuukese education system is still challenging, I am continuing to deal with language barrier issues daily. I AM allergic to chalk dust and by 5^th period everyday I am sniffling and sneezing and my 8^th graders ask what’s wrong with me.

The students are getting more comfortable with me. Carter, one of my favorite 6^th graders, visits me in the mornings in the library. But there are also hard moments- this week my 6^th graders were finishing up a writing project, just a one paragraph story but we worked on it for a week. When it came time to hand it in, all that my student Jerome had written on his paper was, “I am sorry.” It was heartbreaking. He is one of the students who struggles the most in English and since there are no resources like special Ed or after school tutoring, it’s difficult to help students so far behind, especially for me because I don’t have as firm a grasp on Chuukese as would be necessary. But I am constantly looking for creative ways to get to those students.

The two JV communities on Weno are doing well. This Wednesday Saramen Chuuk Academy (the high school where I live and where my 3 community-mates teach) played Xavier High School (where the other 4 JVs live and teach). They are the only two Catholic high schools in Chuuk. Marcos coaches SCA, Josh coaches Xavier, both JVs, so needless to say there is a huge rivalry. We all went up for the game on Wednesday after school. St. Cecilia lies on the road (there’s only one road) about halfway between the two schools, so I hopped on the back of the flatbed to join SCA and the JVs as they were going up to Xavier. It was great to see Marcos and Josh in action- they’re both really passionate about what they are doing, the rest of us found it amusing to watch. Xavier won by 5 and it was a great game. This weekend were are throwing a small Halloween party for the JVs and some faculty- Jessie is far more excited about it than I’ve ever seen anyone be for a party. It’s funny to try and decorate with the resources we have here. We love the simplicity.

I hope everyone is well at home and elsewhere. I am missing fall! It’s still 85 and humid here every day.

Peace,

Caitlin

Chuukese

I have been thinking a lot about the language barrier that exists here in Chuuk between English and Chuukese speakers. The subject comes up in conversation daily among my community-mates.

Each state in the FSM speaks its own language. In Chuuk, the 70,000 people who live here speak Chuukese. Chuukese is that strangest language I have ever heard; it makes Kiswahili look easy. There are no books published in Chuukese other than a translation of the Bible- the language was historically only oral. The way the school system here works (or at least in theory) is that students speak Chuukese in school through the 3rd grade. After that classes are supposed to begin to switch over to English. The only language spoken in the high schools here is English; the only opportunities for Chuukese to go to college are in English speaking schools. The only college here in Chuuk is COM- college of Micronesia, a 2 year associates program in education. And that’s the only option. Most students seeking a college education who do not attend COM go off island, to Pohnpei, Guam, Hawaii or elsewhere in the States.

The lack of options frustrates me daily; it is a type of poverty I hadn’t considered before. Try to wrap your head around not even having the opportunity to attend college in your native language. Part of the reason for the English system is the small number of Chuukese speakers, and part is the America education system enforced here on this small island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. As with many challenges Chuuk faces, the Chuukese are not often assisted by the foreign system at work here in this non-Western location.

For me at St. Cecilia, the language barrier is more apparent than for the other JVs. As the only elementary school teacher, most of my students are only beginning to learn English. At St. Cecilia, the students do not start classes in English in the 4^th grade. In fact most teachers teach in Chuukese through the 8^th grade, knowing that when they arrive in high school, the students will be forced to speak only English. Most of the teachers aren’t fluent in English either. It is difficult for my students and I to understand each other. Often directions must be repeated 5, 10 times in the classroom. I worry that I will never be able to connect with my students in any sort of depth due to the language barrier that divides us.

Every day I grapple with the implications of my presence here, as I participate in a system that forces a foreign language on Chuukese people. Am I facilitating an effort to strip the Chuukese language away from its speakers? Should we just let Chuuk be, take our language and head home? I don’t know. I do know that the only option for a college education is in English, and with that education a Chuukese person has the potential to make these decisions for herself or himself. I try to explain to my 7^th graders that bilingualism is an important tool they will need to claim their own voice in the world- I’m not sure they get it.

In asking these questions to my community-mates the other night, Marcos turned to me saying- whenever you question why you’re here, remember that you were invited. Marcos’ reminder, along with Tuesday night Chuukese lessons has been enough solace for my restless wondering for now.

Pisar and Pisiwi

I've been trying to get this post up for a while. We just got power back on island after a week!

“I think we lucked out on weather,” Jessie says to me as we are sitting in a small fiber glass boat cruising through the Pacific. I look around at the deep blue water surrounding us, “I think we lucked out in life,” I say back.

The past two weekends I have been able to spend some time off-island, out of Weno exploring different islands in Chuuk. Now, this type of luxury is not normal for JVs, just coincidence really.

Last weekend my community and I went to Pisar, a football field sized island about a 45 minute boat ride away from Weno. Pisar lies on the outer reef that surrounds the Chuuk Lagoon. It is paradise. Pisar looks like every post card, corona commercial, screen saver image of an island paradise that you can recall in your memory. So much so that it seems completely surreal. There are white sand beaches, palm trees, hammocks made of fish nets, mountainous islands in the distance and gorgeous coral in the water. Locals say it is one of the two most beautiful islands in Chuuk. It’s ridiculous; there is no other way to describe it.

Marcos, Jessie, Lincoln, Monica (Lincoln’s girlfriend who is visiting) and I spent the day there. It was the best vacation I have ever had. We waded in the warm waters, unable to concentrate on any conversation other than that of the beauty that surrounded us. We geared up for about an hour and a half of snorkeling, swimming about 200 yards out to discover coral walls 10 feet high off the sea floor, bold colors, bright blue starfish. It was incredible, comparable to the Great Barrier Reef but better since we were alone on an island with no one around us for miles. After swimming I napped in a hammock, read some, ate, and went back to swim before leaving for the day. It was wonderful and relaxing. The JVs return to Pisar annually for our Re-Orientation and dis-Orientation at the end of each year. Anyone who wants to make the trip out to Chuuk- I promise to take you to Pisar.

This past weekend Jessie and I unexpectedly traveled to Pisiwi, a small picnic island only 20 minutes by boat away from Weno, with a Chuukese family. Picnic islands are common recreational sites for Chuukese, there are smaller, uninhabited islands where people go to eat, swim and relax with family and friends. Our day at Pisiwi served a completely different purpose that our time in Pisar, however. Kathy Lucas is that name of the Chuukese woman who brought us along with her family. She is the mother of one of Jessie’s high school students who has spent a fair amount of time in the US and who Jessie and I felt was an appropriate person to learn about Chuuk from. Having lived in the States would have provided better understanding for her about why Jessie and I have millions of questions about life in Chuuk- dress, gender roles, HIV/AIDS, customs, local religion, oral traditions, sexuality, etc, etc. (We have lots of questions.)

In our mission to understand this place, Jessie asked if Kathy would be willing to share some of her perspective with us, she agreed, told us where to meet her daughter who picked us up and brought us to their village. There we discovered that we were being taken off island as guests with their family of about 20. Family has a very loose definition here. All cousins and Aunts and Uncles are what we would consider immediate family. Everyone is related. There are many cultural adoptions practiced where if one family couldn’t care for their children, a child may go and live with their aunt or uncle. Everyone is taken care of by their community. Here, my brothers and sisters are Lincoln, Marcos and Jessie.

Once we arrive in Pisiwi Jessie and I talk to Adleen and Dubo, Kathy’s daughters who are 27 and 23 respectively. It was my first opportunity to talk to Chuukese peers. (I spend most of my time with kids 11-14.) Both Adleen and Dubo spent many years in the US with their adopted grandparents, until they returned home for high school. So they could talk to us in English, and give us their unique perspective on the differences between both cultures. They encouraged Jessie and I to ask as many questions as we wanted, honestly. The conversation continued when Kathy joined us.

The women explained many things to us in Pisiwi, information I will continue to process for a long time. They described the history behind the way women dress- all women have knees and shoulders covered now. However, years ago before Chuuk was imperialized by Spain, Germany, Japan, and America most people did not wear clothes at all. In many places in the outer islands of Chuuk and in Yap the women still remain topless. But the tradition is dying out. So it’s difficult to understand the dress customs when they are not authentic to the Chuukese culture. Some outsider came in to Chuuk and told the people to cover up. We asked about gender roles. Women cook, clean, and are not allowed to leave the house after dark. No one visits friends after dark, even on the weekends. Men, however are allowed out, can tell the women to fix them dinner without being questioned and may drink publicly. If a woman is seen drinking it is considered disrespectful. Additionally, there are special roles for brother and sisters. Even if the brother is younger he may tell the sister what to do. Sisters must remain most formal around their brothers before anyone else. They must not show their knees, use strong language and so on. We discussed dating in Chuuk, it is basically unacceptable. Most people either end out sneaking out of their homes late at night to visit someone they are interested in dating, or get married as nearly strangers. This leads to problems like divorce and domestic abuse in Chuuk. I won’t be able to write everything I learned in Pisiwi, but I will attempt to relate it later as I have more experiences in Chuuk.

Life here in Chuuk has begun to take on its own rhythm. Work Monday to Friday, relax and run errands as much as possible on the weekends. We are all doing well here. More thoughts to come later

Peace,

Caitlin

pictures are up

hello out there, just wanted to let you know my pictures are up on Flickr. The link is to the right screen of this blog. Jessie and I are going to be sharing the account for the next two years so there will be double the pictures. enjoy!
peace and love
caitlin